Some
special ingredients of skin care products
Antioxidants
The antioxidants used in cosmetics are derived from
certain vitamins, mainly A, C and E, which form
part of the body's natural defence and balance system.
Antioxidants are thought to protect the skin by
attaching themselves to free radicals, minimising
the
harm they do to the skin. These additives may help
the skin repair systems, but hard scientific evidence
for this is limited.
D-Panthenol
This substance is readily converted into vitamin
B5, which has been shown to help the skin to repair
damage.
Vitamin E
This is commonly included in cosmetics. It may help
to reduce the effects of free radicals formed from
sun damage.
Pro-vitamin A
This is another antioxidant that may help to reduce
the effects of free radicals.
Retinyl proprionate:
This is a unique form of Vitamin A (retinol). It is considered
a Vitamin A ester and is part of a class of compounds known as
retinoids. Applied to the skin's surface, it works to improve
the appearance of sun-damaged skin by reducing the look of fine
lines and wrinkles, skin roughness and appearance of blotchiness
(age spots). It is a larger molecule than retinol, which is often
times regarded as the pure form of Vitamin A.
Niacinamide:
Also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin found in
the body. When applied topically to the skin, this vitamin helps
exfoliate surface skin cells to reveal, newer, younger looking skin
and enhances barrier repair.
Hyaluronic acid
As we have seen (page 30),
this natural moisturizer forms part of the tissue
that , surrounds the collagen and elastin fibres.
As we age, we produce less hyaluronic
acid in our skin, which becomes less resilient and
pliable. Hyaluronic acid is often added to moisturizers,
and can be injected by doctors into the skin.
Ceramides
These are lipids that help to prevent moisture loss
through the skin. They assist the skin in its function
as an efficient barrier. |
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Retinoic acid
This is a derivative of vitamin A which was
originally prescribed in high doses for the
treatment of acne. It does refine the skin,
increase collagen production and reduce wrinkles,
but it can have unpleasant side-effects such
as extreme sensitivity to sunlight, with increased
reddening of the skin and peeling. It is available
on prescription from a dermatologist for severe
sun damage. Well-formulated cosmetics may contain
moderate and harmless amounts of retinoic acid
derivatives, which at these levels have
some hydrating effects.
Liposomes
Liposomes are tiny, hollow spheres of lipids
(fats), which are filled with active ingredients.
They are designed as a transportation system to carry
these ingredients
to the places where the skin needs them. Liposome
spheres are smaller than skin cells, therefore
ingredients held inside them can be delivered
with great accuracy into the skin and released
precisely as needed.
Nanospheres
These are smaller versions of liposomes. Because
of their smaller size, they are supposed to
penetrate deeper into the skin.
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SKIN
MYTH
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Many cosmetic creams have an anti-aging effect
because they contain the proteins collagen
and/or elastin.
Fact: Collagen forms fibres in
the dermis which give the skin structural
support, provide strength, and allow the skin
to stretch and
contract. Elastin is the protein that binds
the collagen bundles together. Despite the
name, we do not know whether elastin is
actually responsible for the skin's elasticity.
When applied to the skin,
these creams do not have much effect on the
changes in appearance due to natural aging.
They do
have humectant properties, however, plumping
out the skin with retained moisture. |
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