Page 102 -- SKIN CARE
 
World of Skin Care Information - Table of Contents Skin and Aging Moisturizers and cosmetic preservatives Hand lotions World of Skin Care Information Index
 

Skin care and moisturizers

   For instance, a heavy-duty moisturizer for the hands will contain a large proportion of a humectant such as glycerol. Under normal conditions, however, this would be too heavy for use on the face, and a lighter formulation would be more appropriate.
   A cosmetic moisturizer designed to encourage skin hydration will be made up from a small percentage of water and humectant, blended with oils and emulsified to form a liquid or cream. Night creams can be water-in-oil emulsions as they contain a high proportion of excellent humectants.

The general rule is that the drier the skin and its environment, the richer should be the moisturizer.

   Younger people tend to prefer lighter moisturizing products than older generations. This is because the younger the skin, the greater is its capacity to retain water, and the more sebum it produces
.

Specialized moisturizers

Cosmetic companies are now producing skin care moisturizer products that incorporate substances giving
 
protection against ultraviolet radiation, as well as other ingredients for hydration and exfoliation. Products with sunscreens are intended for regular daily use, not only for application during heat waves or on beach holidays.
  As we saw in Chapter 4, there is a good deal of scientific evidence that the daily use of a moisturizer with sunscreen ingredients can reduce the long-term effects of photodamage.
   Increasingly men, as well as women, are recognising the need for regular moisturising and the daily use of sunscreens.

How a moisturizer may change the appearance of the skin

As we saw earlier (page 28), the way in which visible light interacts with skin is fundamental to how we see it and judge its condition.
  There are several ways in which cosmetic preparations may improve the appearance of the skin. Application of a simple oil-in-water emulsion containing glycerol will smooth down the squames and produce swelling of the stratum corneum. This mechanism is responsible for the surface-smoothing effect that

Skin care cosmetic ingredients dictionary


    CTFA name

   Function
      CTFA name  Function


Water

Solvent
Glycerin Skin conditioning agent/
humectant
Isohexadecane Emollient
Niacinamide Vitamin B3, skin conditioner
Dimethicone Skin Conditioner
Isopropyl Isostearate Emollient and skin conditioner
Polyacrylamide Thickener
Sorbitan starate Emulsifier
Cetyl Alcohol Thickener and skin conditioner
Sucrose Polycottonseedate Emollient and skin conditioner
C13-14 Isoparaffin Emollient
Panthenol Pro Vitamin B5/Skin Conditioner
Tocopherol Acetate Vitamin E, emollient and Skin Conditioner
Stearyl Alcohol Thickener and skin conditioner
Titanium Dioxide Opacifying agent
Dimethiconol Skin Conditioner
Benzyl Alcohol Preservative
Ethyl Paraben Preservative
Laureth-7 Emulsifier
Fragrance Fragrance
Sucrose Cocate Emulsifier
Propyl Paraben Preservative
Diesodium EDTA Chelating agent
PEG 100 Stearate Emulsifier
Stearic Acid Emulsifier
Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster
Methyl Paraben Preservative
Ammonium Polyacrylate Dispersant
FD&C Yellow#5 Color
FD&C Red#40 Color

    The ingredients of a modern, good-quality moisturizer and their functions.
 
World of Skin Care Information - Table of Contents Skin and Aging Moisturizers and cosmetic preservatives Hand lotions World of Skin Care Information Index