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Page 88 -- COSMETIC HAIR TREATMENTS

World of Hair Table of Contents - Hair Care and Hair Products Research hair care Relaxing Hair Straightening Changing Hair Color Cosmetic Hair Problems Hair Care Index
problems with perming and straightening

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Problems in perming and straightening

In some countries, up to 70% of women have permed hair, in order to give their hair curl and body. In expert hands, perming can create wonderful effects. And it is a tribute to the skill of stylists and technicians that so many perms are successful and attractive, despite all the complexity of the chemistry and science of perming.

 

Unfortunately, not all hair is suitable for perming - and so many clients with thinning hair seem to want a perm! - let alone the delicate question of whether the style that has charmed the client will in fact suit her. The table below shows some problems that can arise with perming.

  • Although some of the disulphide linkages re­form during neutralisation, a proportion fail to do so and remain broken. The hair is thereby weakened.
  • Where the cuticle scales fail to close up tightly again after perming, the hair is left with a roughened surface and weathers more quickly.
  • Incorrect application of perming, straightening or relaxing solutions can dissolve the hair fibres or lead to breakage, usually quite close to the scalp. This kind of breakage almost never happens on the same day as perming. It is believed to be the result of either over-perming or poor neutralization.
Changing hair color

If ever there was a mark of our desire to change the way other people see us, changing hair color has to be it! For example, for thousands of years Indian ladies have put red highlights into their dark hair using pure henna, a semi­permanent dye prepared from the Egyptian privet (Lawsonia inermis), a flowering shrub that grows in their country.
Permanent waving process variability: the factors to be considered before perming
Hair stock Hair type Hair history Perm process Post perm
      Reduction Rinse

Neutralise

 
Caucasian Dry Perm Chemistry Time Chemistry Advise
- Northern Europe Greasy Color - acid   - age of product  
- Latin Normal Bleach - alkaline Temperature - concentration Warm water
- Indian Mixed Weathered - age of product   - temperature of solution  
Asian     - concentration Volume - ambient temperature Perm type/style
- Chinese Curly Normal - temperature of solution   - time to apply  
- Japanese Straight Mixed - ambient temperature   - time to work Product use
      - time to apply   - pre-wet  
  Long   - time to work   - post-wet Activity
African Short   - pre-wet   - solution:hair mass ratio  
      - post-wet      
  Thick   - solution:hair mass ratio      
  Thin          
      Curlers      
  Coarse   - size      
  Medium   - type      
  Fine   Hair tension      
hair care Relaxing Hair Straightening Changing Hair Color Cosmetic Hair Problems hair care index