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an on-line reference by Dr. John Gray,
provided by the P&G Hair Care Research Center.
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Page 121 -- HAIR CARE PRODUCTS

World of Hair Table of Contents - Hair Care and Hair Products Research Hair and Scalp Disorders Shampooing and Conditioning Agents for hair care Hair Care Routines and Hair Types The Science of Styling Hair Care Index
HAIR FACTS

Shampoos

Some people feel anxious about possible side-effects of the shampoo formulations that they use.
A group of experts took their concerns seriously, and pooled their experiences. As a result of their discussions, these experts concluded:
  • Shampoos do not interfere with hair growth.
  • The ingredients in these formulations do not harm the hair or the scalp.
  • Shampoos do not alter the physical properties of hair, such as its elasticity and strength.
  • There is no evidence that modern shampoos cause matting or tangling of hair.
  • There is no evidence that shampoo causes bubble hair.
  • There is no evidence that shampoo causes dandruff.
  • There is no evidence that silicone conditioning agents like those in '2-in-1' formulations interfere with procedures like perming and dyeing.

Styling products

These products are used to give the finishing touches to the chosen hair style, in order to get the final effect the user is looking for. Most are synthetic products, designed to make the hair thicker and firmer.

Setting lotions

These protect the hair from heat. Liquid lotions are designed to be used on wet hair. They give extra volume to the finished style.

Styling mousses

These can be used on either dry or wet hair, and are especially suitable for curly styles.
  Gels

'Wet gels' give a glossy appearance to the hair. They
work best with black hair.

Hair sprays

Hair sprays are generally used on dry hair, to hold and
fix a style. A hair spray is a solution of a polymer (plastic)
in a liquid.
  The hair spray solution in the canister reaches the hair
in the form of a fog of tiny droplets. When these strike the
hair they join up, coating the hair thinly with the polymer.
The spray dries very quickly, since the liquid evaporates almost at the instant it touches the hair. As it dries the
polymer forms light welds or bonds between the strands
of hair. It is these bonds that hold the newly created style
in place.
    Different types of hair spray are sold, for use on
different types of hair. They differ in the formulation of
the holding polymer used, and also in the way the spray
is produced. Polymer sprayed on the hair in the form of
large droplets gives more hold; it takes longer to dry, however, which leaves the hair feeling sticky for a while.
It may also seem stiffer and rougher when it is dry. Smaller droplets give better feel, but a less firm hold. It is important
to choose the right balance between hold and feel.
  The more heavily the spray is applied, the stronger is
the hold. But there is a definite trade-off: the build-up of polymer on the hair both looks and feels unpleasant. Some sprays feel sticky after even a fairly light application. A
good spray will give both good 'hold' and good 'feel'
without heavy or repeated application, and will be
completely removed by shampooing.
    Most hair sprays bond the hair strands into long, linear bundles - that is, they 'seam weld' the hair. But this
structure is broken down as soon as a comb or fingers
are run through it, or even in damp or windy conditions.
A new innovation produces 'spot welds' rather than seam welds see . This reduces the volume of product
on the hair. It also gives a softer hold and less damage to
the cuticles when the hair is groomed.   

Hair and Scalp Disorders Shampooing and Conditioning Agents for hair care Hair Care Routines and Hair Types The Science of Styling hair care index